Kerschbaum Cuvée 2017

14.5% abv. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Blaufränkisch. Horitschon, Mittelburgenland

Deep ruby with purple reflections and rim. A rich, opulent nose offering orange zest and dark fruit wrapped around a solid core of dark plum. There is some sweet oak around the fringes but it does not overshadow the gorgeous dark fruit. With some aeration in the glass, sprinkles of green peppercorn and capsicum emerge - more on the riper side rather than vegetal which speaks to the hot, dry weather that swept through Burgenland in July and August leaving many vineyards unnervingly parched.

Thick layers of dark fruit including a wave if dark plum coat the palate with an earthy sweetness and capsicum as well. Rich and silky. Medium bodied with fine tannins that shape the wine nicely. Given the scorching heat and lack of water of 2017, the wine is finely balanced with sufficient acidity and energy - a nod to Kershbaum's decision to pick the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot at precisely the right time. Needs a good decant at this stage, however, and is best served on the cooler side to tame down the flavours a notch. There is real substance and depth here: all that is required is more patience to allow this wine to mature in bottle, and when it does, it will be sublime. Excellent winemaking in a challenging vintage. Drinking window 2023 to 2035.

Rating: * * * *

Price: 56 EURO